As
the gates of DXB international airport open into the city, one tends to
think that the entire place is a movie set. The roads, pavements, buildings,
signboards, cars… everything is so perfect.
The hedges and trees follow a geometric perfection. Even the people move
in such a disciplined manner.
As it was February now, even the weather felt like Switzerland in spring.
There are skyscrapers all around and everything is vying to be bigger, grander and more luxurious than anything experienced before.
 |
| Dubai: Pedestrians are rare, stretch limousines are common |
 |
| Even the trees fall in line |
 |
| The One Za'beel link with infinity pool |
Historically this place was an unspectacular desert with tribesmen and Bedouins vying for scraps that the desert would throw up, and the resulting inter-tribal skirmishes. Perhaps the only commercial activity along the Gulf coast was pearl farming.
Then in the 1940s they discovered that if one bought gold and electronics in UK and sold it in Dubai, there were many 'enterprising' ways in which it could reach India at a huge premium. Remember the maal that Rabert unloaded from the fishing boats at Versova!
Thus came an influx of Sindhi Bhatias (from a particular area in Sindh called Thatta) who set up legitimate trading companies and shops in the Souks of Dubai. Even so, it remained an impoverished desert area, where some people managed to make money.
And then suddenly one fine day in 1950, black gold was found in the same seas where pearls were being farmed. Overnight the fortunes of the locals changed. While most of the trillion billions of oil treasure would be controlled by Royal families, everyone, including ordinary citizens began to enjoy a lifestyle unimaginable by the richest people in the west. You just had to be a son of the soil, or rather the sand!
No wonder citizenship is not offered to anyone at any cost.
Of course there are inequalities within the Gulf region, but after the initial days of squabbling, the concept of United Arab Emirates came into existence under the watchful eyes of Her Majesty in 1971 when the British finally handed over the reins to the locals. But not before laying down the foundation of the ultimate progressive Arab Nation built from scratch, to the highest European standards of roadways, construction and processes.
Fortunately the visionary Sheikhs managed to stay away from radical Wahabism/anti semetism/ anti Shiaism and went about building an El Dorado for themselves.
While Abu Dhabi became the lead Emirate, having 80 percent of the land and oil reserves, Dubai became important due to its mercantile history. The other five Emirates remain quite insignificant in the larger scheme of things and everyone accepts Abu Dhabis primacy.
The Sheikh of Dubai soon became aware that since they hardly had any oil reserves, the only way to keep afloat and remain relevant was to create a service/ tourism industry like no other.
Thus came the mega hotels, skyscrapers malls and amusement parks and everything to support them.
This is where the Gulf boom entered the Indian subcontinent . And so also a host of other places like Africa , Egypt, Lebanon, Phillipines and Thailand from where millions would come to work as blue collar and white collar workers and keep the playground of the rich and famous running smoothly.
Today
80% of the population of UAE are expats who come to earn an honest living and
are paid handsomely for their labours. The Europeans find the weather excellent
(heat is not an issue for indoor workers), since sunshine is what they crave. The
quality of life is excellent and crime is non- existent. The Indians are
happy with the pay and affordable maids! Above all there's Indian food
universally available.
Since the only produce is oil, there is negligible other industry. The area of
Al Ain, which is an Oasis, has some fields, otherwise there is only desert
all around.
In fact as one leaves the City, the buildings and habitation ends abruptly to
reveal vast expanses of Lunar like terrain.
From the desert, Dubai city and all its prosperity, actually seems like a Mirage. Is it really so illusory and transient? Only time will tell.
Since there is no ground water available, the entire water supply is derived from the giant desalination plants located outside the city.
One actually can imagine that this is how a human habitation would one day come
up on the Moon or Mars, and we would be mining some rare ethereal mineral which
would pay for all the construction!
While the tourist attractions created in and around Dubai would probably need a
month to experience we managed to take in a few sights on our visit to our
children settled and working in Dubai.
 |
When
in Dubai, one realizes that money can actually buy anything including an indoor
ski resort, but perhaps an indoor Golf Course is truly difficult to sustain. So
the next best option to enjoy Golf in the scorching summers is to play at
night! All the Golf courses in Dubai have
powerful mast lights enabling one to play after sundown. We managed a game of Night Golf at The Creek resort which
has a par 3 nine hole beginners course but still cost Rs 2250 for a round!
 |
| Night Golf at The Creek resort |
Located just outside the city, the Global village is an International trade fair with huge temporary pavilions representing different countries selling their products and cuisine. The themes change in every season. The short dance shows by every country adds to the festivities. The monstrous rides and eateries make for a complete family experience.
 |
| Burj Khalifa overlooking the Dubai Mall and fountain |
The Dubai mall in the heart of the business district is the mother of all malls and also boasts of a short fountain show like the one in Las Vegas. It is at the foot of the Burj Khalifa, which represents the zenith of Dubai's ambitious dream of building taller and grander than anyone before. But the most awe inspiring creation in the Dubai Mall area is the immersive aquarium. One actually gets to walk into a tunnel surrounded by Sharks and other exotic fish.
 |
| Beware of the Predator! |
The Museum of the future located nearby in the main business district is such a sellout that tickets were not available till March end! Even so, the ground floor is open freely to public and gives one a snapshot of what's there on the other floors. One could admire it's unique signature exterior which itself could be termed as outdoor art.
 |
| Museum of the future |
Green Planet is a unique indoor ecosystem housed in an enormous 4 story high structure designed to bring us upclose with a tropical rainforest right in the middle of city skyscrapers. To call it an indoor aviary/ zoo would be doing some injustice to the exhilarating experience that it provides to children and adults alike.
A trip to the Al Qudra lake reveals what the ecosystem might be in an actual oasis. The "lake" is created artificially but the birds and plants are all real. Popular amongst the local birdwatchers, it is also a favourite night camping/ barbecue destination. The route to the lake boasts of one of the longest cycling tracks running along the highway and very popular with the cycling enthusiasts.
The Miracle garden is the largest flower garden in the world. The name is very apt but our experience was more miraculous since we landed up there on Valentine's day! Located next to it, is the Butterfly park, which is no less miraculous. An " indoor Zoo for butterflies" would begin to describe it, but the experience is indescribable.
 |
 |
| Valentine day at Miracle Garden |
The Al Seef area along the Dubai creek has been created as a boating/ shopping/dining destination and comes alive in the evening.
 |
| The Al Seef alley with Turkish Lamps |
There are a number of beautifully manicured municipal parks and places like the JBR promenade along the creek where one can simply spend the day or evening with the family.
 |
| The only litter seen on otherwise squeaky clean roads. The phone number to the most basic human need |
Our day trip to Abu Dhabi was on a bus tour conducted by the Oceania group
which seems to be the largest operator.
 |
| View from 73rd floor of Hotel Conrad, Abu Dhabi |
The high point (literally) is the 360 degree viewing deck on the 73rd floor of the Conrad Hotel. For some reason they permit free access including a ride on the fastest elevator! One can see the grandeur of Royal Palace and The Palace hotel. The outrageously luxurious Atlantis is right in front. What is also obvious is that there are several more "islands" waiting to get constructed upon...
The Abu Dhabi Royal Palace is
actually the offices of the Presidentent/VP etc. Nobody actually resides there.
But the gobsmakingly grand edifice has been created to host heads of state.
They also realized that unless public is allowed to actually see and marvel at
the creation, the whole point of sinking billions into an office complex would
be defeated. Hence public is allowed in some parts of the palace. Closely
chaperoned by black coat wearing security personnel one gets to experience the
sheer grandeur of what money can buy and marble mines of Italy can produce.
 |
| The Grand Royal Palace, Abu Dhabi |
Amongst the state gift collection, the tiered tulip holder from Netherlands tends to catch the eye.
 |
| Tulip Holder |
The Grand mosque is approached
through a Mall where we had a lunch break.
The purity of the white Carara marble is only matched by the grandeur of the 20
ton Swarovski crystal studded chandeliers and 35 ton carpet woven by 1200
Iranian women. Inspired by the Taj Mahal and a mosque in Lahore, the courtyard
can accommodate 30000 people offering Namaz at a time.
Hidden away from the public access is the grave of Sheikh Zayed (in whose
memory this mosque was built). 24 priests have been reciting from the holy book
continuously in hourly shifts since the last 20 years!
 |
| Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque: Abu Dhabi |
 |
| White marble from Carara, Italy |
 |
| The Chandelier (12 Tonnes) and the carpet (35 Tonnes) |
On the way back we crossed the Yas
Island area which is a mega activity destination. It has a formula 1 track,
an auditorium which hosts grand functions like filmfare awards. The largest
casino in the world is coming up apart from a sea world park etc.
We also went past the Louvre museum. They just decided to buy the name for
their museum from the French government for 30 billion dollars. They are not
done yet as the Guggenheim is coming up next door.
The United Arab Emirates are not bestowed with mighty mountains, canyons, forests or
ancient historical monuments. However by the sheer power of the petrodollar,
right thinking Arabs and unprecedented human endeavor, the Emiratis have definitely
managed to create an El Dorado which is a“must visit” tourist destination.
Travel tips:
1. Online tickets are cheaper than
tickets bought at entry gates of Miracle garden and any of the other
attractions.
2. Tourists purchasing any item in
the City can seek a refund on VAT at the prominently located counter at the
Airport departure (just before the boarding gates).
3. The free Dubai Sim given by the
Immigration officer at entry gets activated only if you reply to the welcome SMS.
It has enough data to get you to the hotel. The packet even includes the pin to
open the Sim tray!
3. Plenty of normal taxis are
available at the airport and there is no need for Uber etc. All taxis accept
credit cards. Enabling the international credit card transactions online is
required.
4. There is no real need to carry
large amounts of dollars or Dirhams since cards are universally accepted. One
Dirham (AED) equals Rs 23
5. The level of road discipline is extreme and applies to pedestrians as well.
(Rs 8000 fine if you cross the road when pedestrian signal is red)
6. Though it is a desert, nights can get quite cold.
 |
| JBR beach promenade |
7. The fountain show at Dubai Mall lasts only 6 minutes and happens every half hour starting at 1800
8. Entry to the Grand mosque at Abu Dhabi is free but online entry pass needs to be generated.
Gastronomic Tips:
1. Eating out options exist for all the world's cuisines everywhere, but the area of Karama/ Mankhool is replete with names reminding one of Home. Apart from the Sarvana Bhavans, Haldirams, Kailash Parbats etc, Peshwa is a fine dining Maharastrian place. Tum tum Asia serves the ultimate Veg Chinese/ Asian.
2. Laban is the local name for good old lassi. Its a life saver for vegetarians and available in all grocery stores. It is thick and sold unflavored or strawberry/mango flavour.
3. There is a plethora of restaurants serving Arabic cuisine. Shawarma joints abound. Manakish bread with Zatar and labneh are worth tasting. Arabic cuisine is flavorful but not spicy; one could even call it bland to the Indian palate.
4. The malls have the usual fast food joints, French fine dine, Chinese restaurants, Vietnamese places and Italian gelatos with very unique flavors.
5. To round up a meal one can go for the Turkish
Kunafa and Baklava for desserts. Kunafa seems slightly overrated.
6. Having Turkish ice cream is an experience. Not so much for the taste, but for the drama in the way that it is served to children and women!
7. Roasted chestnuts sold attractively alongwith Bhutta on the redi are actually quite tasteless
