Birding in the Land of the Buddha

 

The essence of Bhutan : Forest, Mountain, Mist and Gompa

Bhutan is on the bucket list of many birders, not merely due to the fact that it promises a spectacular offering of Himalayan beauties, but also for the irresistible natural splendour of this little Buddhist Kingdom.  The country, nestled in the Great Himalayan Ranges, is 80% forest and even the rest is very sparsely populated. 

80% of Bhutan looks like this

The All pervasive Buddha

The very mention of Bhutan brings to mind the oft repeated factoid that they are the happiest country in the World. How on Earth did someone decide whether or not an entire country was happy, when I have difficulty answering that question for my own self!!

Happy Tibetans!

Considering that tourism is their primary source of income (the other being hydel power), it is even more incredulous when we are told that that they are now imposing a tax to prevent too much tourism, especially low budget tourists from India. No wonder that while there is a huge land border with India, they permit entry at only two points for foreigners.

Paro international airport

There is a full length runway at the Paro international airport, but they don’t allow any foreign airlines to land there. Even within the Druk/Bhutan airways staff, only Captains with 15 yrs experience are permitted to land the aircraft. And with good reason.

The Yongphulla Airport: Land if you dare!

In the downtown area of the city, one gets a feel of being in a Swiss village. There are no traffic signals even in the capital city. Vehicles wait for each other and even for pedestrians at zebra crossings. All buildings are well kempt and have cute flower pots adorning them. In other words, the place is picture perfect.

Departmental store, Paro

 

One thing Bhutan does not suffer from is too much democracy. The average person is deeply religious and willing to respect religious and autocratic hierarchy.  This conveniently compensates for the obvious absence of certain privileges associated with the conventional concepts of what the rest of the world calls fundamental rights.

Paro at Night

 

 

 

Houses are mandated to be of only one design. Only two colours are permitted for the roof. All signboards of shops, hotels and streets are as per approved design. In fact it makes the country look like a movie set! Every hotel or public place is mandated to adorn its walls with huge posters of the Royal family who are in fact deified. 

To prevent being overrun by Nepali immigrants and large neighbours, as happened in Sikkim, the year 1958 has been kept as the cutoff for granting citizenship.

 

 

The phallic symbol is on open display everywhere and the philosophy behind it is beautifully explained in this book that I chanced upon. It is a symbol of fertility and prominently adorns the exterior of ornately painted houses and buildings apart from other auspicious symbols like tiger, lotus, conch etc. Curio shops are lined with wooden likenesses in different sizes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cordyceps, a caterpillar fungus found in Bhutan, is a highly valued aphrodisiac commonly known as “Himalayan Viagra”. Costs Rs 4 Lac per Kg

Naturally when one goes to a foreign country, there is curiosity regarding its history and cultural aspects. Thankfully we had a very articulate guide who was well versed and experienced in enlightening the guests on these aspects. He was equally at home in the forests and was aware of the local bird species.

Our guide Jigme Kinley 

The entire country is dotted with majestic structures called Dzongs, atop the hills overlooking the valleys. This is the seat of the clergy (religious head) as also the government (administration). Most Dzongs also serve as monasteries. Boys are sent here by their parents in the hope of free education. Not everyone eventually ends up as a practicing monk. While Gelugpa monks are celibate, but Nyingmapas are allowed to marry and  raise families.

 

 

 

 

 

 

While Buddhism existed here since the seventh century, the area now called Bhutan once consisted of different warring chieftains squabbling for territory and taxes (as in any part of the the world in medieval times).

Their unification was brought about in the 17^th century by a Buddhist monk called Shabdrung Namgyal. Interestingly he himself had fled from Tibet but was able to unite the various Dzongs using the thread of Buddhism. He introduced the concept of dual control by the religious and administrative heads. Naturally the clergy therefore played a prominent role in the scheme of things, which it does to this day. The predominantly Tantrik form of Buddhism is practiced by 95% of the population.

The National language of Bhutan is Dzongkha but there are also five others. Present day Bhutan is dotted with English medium schools.

Schooling is free

The matriarchal nature of society exists only at village level. Women take on major responsibilities and household burden and are also well educated. They are proud to wear the national wraparound dress, though it is not legally binding.

 

They smilingly carry this burden!

 

This is where the beautiful prayer flags etc are made

 

A typical Bhutanese is a deeply religious person who seems quite satisfied with quite less; which is probably the essence of Buddhism. Care for the environment and good Karma is apparent in every sphere of life.  

Mini stupas made at home and left under rocks in memory of ancestors

 

Pine is burnt on the roadside in this large incense burner for positive energy

Paddy fields along rivers and gentle slopes

Only 8% land is areable and that too near the river valleys. The low population pressure is a boon for environment, but there's complete absence of precious human capital in technical, medical and scientific fields. There are a few quartz and Ferro silicate mines. The construction labour is naturally entirely Indian.

 

Birding in Bhutan

Bhutan is easily the most picturesque Himalayan birding experience which can be enjoyed in luxury and splendid isolation. The varied habitats include mountain passes, hilltop monasteries,evergreen forests, fast flowing Himalayan rivers and paddy fields. The Royal Botanical Garden was worth spending an entire day.

Royal Botanical Garden

 

 

Royal Botanical Garden

 

  

 

 

Wild strawberry grows like grass. It is edible

  

During this period of May, the weather was perfect and there were hardly any rain disturbances. The bird sightings were amazing and many lifers including the white bellied heron gave spectacular views.

 

White bellied heron. Only 300 in the world

Long tailed broadbill

Ibisbill, Paro river

Rufous bellied woodpecker: Sucks the sap

 

Crimson breasted woodpecker

White collared blackbird

Yellow billed blue magpie

 

Whiskered yuhina

 

Russet sparrow

Common hoppoe

 

Himalayan cutia

Sikkim Treecreeper

Bhutan laughingthrush

Green tailed sunbird male

Mrs Gould's sunbird

Rusty fronted barwing

Chestnut bellied rock thrush

Crested bunting

Large niltava

Ultramarine flycatcher 

Yellow checked tit

Green backed tit

Rufescent prinia

Black throated prinia

Rufous necked hornbill female

Great hornbill

Golden throated barbet

Red headed trogon

Rufous necked laughingthrush

Blue winged minla (siva)

Chestnut tailed minla

Red tailed minla

Grey crested yuhina

Goldcrest

Satyr tragopan

Khalij phesant

Himalayan monal at Tharpaling monastery

Black rumped magpie

Oriental skylark

Red billed chough

Yellow bellied warbler

Gery sided bush warbler

Black faced warbler

White winged grosbeak female

Collared grosbeak male

 White tailed Nuthatch

Capped langur

Streak breasted scimitar babbler

Spotted forktail

Wedge tailed green pigeon

Long tailed minivet

Long tailed minivet pair

Grey chinned minivet

Eurasian cuckoo

Pale blue flycatcher

Verditer flycatcher

The bird and the bees!

Yellow rumped honeyguide

Crested serpent eagle

Black bulbul

Blue capped rock thrush

Himalayan prinia

Red vented bulbul

Grey bushchat male

Grey bushchat female

Blue whistling thrush

 

Rusty cheeked scimitar babbler

 

Satyr Tragopans in sight, Bhumthang

 

Waiting for the honeyguide to show up

Paro Taktsang monastery: Tigers Nest

 

 

 

Customs check hall at Phuentsholing

Daily visitors from Bhutan to India...for grocery shopping!

 

Border guard: Paperless checks

 

Our Captain Dorji Kota

 Photographs: Nikon P900 and Oneplus Nord2

Tour Operator: Natureindia. https://natureindiatoursblog.wordpress.com

Trip dates: 13 May 23 to 23 May 23 (Group Tour with 11 participants)

Trip Route:

1.       Bagdogra Airport-Jaigaon Night halt.

2.       Border crossing to Phuentsholing-Pacho river  - Paro (Rema resort)

3.       Chelela Pass - Thimpu (Sacred Residency)

4.       Tigers nest-Paro Dzong-  Thimpu (Sacred Residency)

5.       Dochu La pass -  Lhamperi Botanical garden –Punakha (Damchen) @1250m

6.       Mo Chu-Paro Dzong- Trongsa (Hotel Yangkhil) @ 2200m

7.       Tintibi- Yotong La- Tharpaling monastery- Bumthang (Hotel River Lodge) @ 2800m

8.       Trumshinglla Pass-Sengor-Yongkola (Hotel Trogon Villa) @ 2100m

9.       Thrumshing La national park - Yongkola (Hotel Trogon Villa) @ 2100m

10.     Kore La - Trashigang  (Druk Deothjung Resort) @3200m

11.     Yonphu La – Samdrup Jonkhar (Border crossing) – Rangia- Gauhati

Hotel Galing Phuentsholing

 

Rema resort, Paro

 

Service with a smile

  

Trogon Villa, Yongkola

 Hotel Yangkhil Trongsa

 

 

 

Woman power

  

  Trendel resort, Trongsa

 

 

View from Druk Deothjung Resort, Trashigang

 

 

Travel Tips:

1.       The local currency is called Bhutanese Ngultrums (BTN) which is equal to INR. Indian currency is therefore freely accepted. In fact one of the participants agreed to take some (soon to be defunct Rs 2000 notes from one of the hapless shopkeeper who had recently accepted them from an Indian)

 2.       Paro is the only international airport. Druk is the only airline allowed to fly in. There is a direct flight to Gauhati apart from Kolkata, Delhi.

 3.       80% of the country is mountains and still the roads are excellent and very well maintained.

 4.       Indians do not need Visa and can enter with Passport or Voter ID card. Aadhar is NOT accepted!

5.        Most of the resorts that we stayed in were far away from the towns and were maintained to European standards.

 6.        Sandrup Jonkar is the only other point for land route entry for foreigners apart from Phuentsholing.

7.        Some interesting options for pure vegetarians are available in Bhutan!

 

Jacketed potato with sesame

  

Yak cheese on sale. Its actually quite cold up there at
Kore La pass

  

Farmers market in a mofussil village

Ingenuity

Rest stop on highway

Anywhere in Bhutan is a picnic spot

Theme Park at Thimpu

The Windiest place in Bhutan